I occasionally get asked where one can buy a CryptoCape. It had a good run at SparkFun and its distributors for awhile, but alas, it is retired. However, the project limps on now at OSH Park, where you can order the PCBs!
The DEF CON 22 talk was probably the most fun I had with the cape. I liked the UART jumpers but I think people found them a bit annoying as a yet-one-more-thing-to-solder. The 328p could be replaced by the PRU, but the PRU support wasn’t that great when I first started this.
A few notes if you are going to buy the PCB:
- I didn’t test the OSH Park PCBs, I just uploaded the gerbers from the original. However, the original CryptoCape protos were done at OSH Park so chances are good the PCB is O.K.
- There is no text BoM at the moment. You’ll have to dig in Eagle to pull out the component list. Otherwise, I’ll get to this, eventually. The major components are:
- That particular TPM might be hard to find now if that’s your thing.
- The CryptoAuth chips can be upgraded to the ATECC608A/508A/132A/204A. They are pin-for-pin compatible (I’m not 100% sure of the 132A) and you can solder on the SOIC-8. They all have different default I2C address so you can mix and match.
- The script to write the EEPROM, used by the BeagleBone to autodetect the cape, is here. You can just flash the bin if you want to, it should be the same, I think :p The CryptoCape overlay mainly autoloads the TPM driver and the RTC driver. If you don’t care about those, you don’t need the EEPROM.
- If you are new to OSH Park, you will only get the PCB, you need to buy the components and solder it yourself. It should be not-so-bad SMT soldering.
I also get asked (sometimes), when are you doing a CryptoCape v2? Well, I’m probably not. But I and hopefully some of y’all found them useful. I think people mainly used the CryptoAuth chips and a TPM, so I’ll just leave this teaser picture here 🙂 I’m not going to sell these, but I may put them up on OSH Park if they work 😉